Can Standardized Sizing Exist?

I have a bit of a beef with the idea of standards in sizing. Generally my ire is provoked when it comes up in vanity sizing fluff pieces designed to stoke the flames of the frustrated consumer. “Let’s blame the garment industry!!!” Of course these articles are all about pushing ads and using content as a vehicle. What better way to get someone's attention than by telling someone that they are being lied to about their actual body size? 

I know first hand by working with start up designers, that sizing is not about deceiving the customer. In fact, many brands are very concerned and thoughtful. But the question always comes up about standards and how it would make things much easier. 

Now most questions I get are related to what their sizing standards should be. It can be challenging to figure out where to start with sizing for your brand. However, I had a client ask me about developing a size chart for them and how much vanity sizing should affect the outcome. My initial response was my eyebrows touching my hairline because it was such a loaded question and a bit shocking to me. So I think we should discuss a few heavy items related to sizing- standardization and vanity sizing. 

What is vanity sizing?

Vanity sizing, when broken down into its most basic concept, is to say that the size the clothing is labeled is actually different than the size the garment is designed for. For instance, a brand can offer their size 8 dress. If you, as a general size 8, go and try on that dress, you could find that it is too big for you. Perhaps you actually need a size 4 in this brand. It is believed this is done intentionally to flatter the ego of the consumer. 

Although vanity sizing serves up a delectable controversial topic for the masses, as someone who specializes in sizing, I’m skeptical of it being a prolific factor in today’s sizing. Here’s the thing, there was a time that sizing labels did shift significantly. So yes, someone decided that vanity sizing was the way to go. But we have lived through that and it is now our normal that we build upon. 

The quest for standard sizing

Everyone loves a good rule to live by/go by. It gives us guideposts and parameters to stay within so we don’t go too far off track. Standards are especially helpful with tricky subjects such as sizing. For those of you out there looking for a standard size model, well you’d have to hop in your time machine and head back to the 1940’s and 50’s when there was a big push to standardize sizing. Measurements were taken and cataloged for men, women and children and compiled into the ASTM standards that we know today. It was a good idea, but destined to fail as the definitive sizing prerequisite. 

Now don’t get me wrong, having ASTM guidelines can be helpful and a good place to start. But the problem with these standards is they are too broad when we are talking about bodies that vary through sizes, shapes, ages and gender associations. Everybody is literally unique. Sizing variance is just the attempt to compile similar sub groups together so their needs are met. The possibilities are endless and I dare any government survey to take on that task. 

Sizing standardization will not fix things

Let’s say that tomorrow the ruling body decrees that all sizes must be the same. But the same what- body measurements, garment measurements? How did they determine that their data is correct? Are they providing clear cut definitions and how they are measuring? I would have soooo many questions. They would hate me.

The problem is that even standards are open to interpretation. Let me give you a real example that happened to me recently. A “senior” level technical designer pronounced that the hip on a dress came out 4” smaller than it should be. That’s blasphemous in my world. I measured the same exact garment and I measured the hip only - ½”. I demonstrated how I got that measurement and they proclaimed to have done the same. How is that possible? Clearly there is a disconnect. 

So even if we did have standards in place that, lets say, a size 20 should have a 50” chest, I will measure the fit model by putting my arms around the models waist to to grasp both ends of a measuring tape and shift it up to the bust, overlapping the tape at bust level below her chin. I have had another very “senior” level technical designer walk the tape around the models body in 5” increments, essentially shuffle- stepping hand movements/groping, to get the full circumference. (For the record, this is not how it’s done). Needless to say, we are getting totally different measurements. 

We are all interpreting standards differently unless agreement happens in advance after training. I’m sorry, but I don’t see the entire garment industry grinding to a halt to figure out new standards and train their workforce. Plus, this would mean that we would all have to be in agreement that the standards are correct. I can’t tell you how many sizing studies I’ve seen that have a lot of weirdness within the details. 

My next question would be who gets to monitor these standards? What happens if a brand is in violation? Is there an actual police force? That's a dystopian road I’d rather not travel down right now. The fashion business is already hard enough!

You can’t stop the sizing evolution

If you sew, you know. Traditional sewing pattern companies have held on to their sizing system for decades. You can easily be a size 4 in off the rack clothing, but a size 12 in sewing patterns. This is really a mind-warp for a lot of people who are new on their self-made wardrobe journey. 

Now I’m not a sizing historian. I don’t need to be and that’s not where my interest lies. But as mentioned, clearly there was a big shift at one point and time. My own speculation was that it was vanity mixed with the need for more inclusivity. But we are talking about the here and now. 

Nowadays, independent sewing brands adhere to a more modern approach to their sizing, even incorporating alpha sizing (small, medium, large, etc). For most consumers, our current sizing structure is confusing, but they know themselves to be a certain size. When shopping for a tshirt, usually we know what size we are looking for and then go from there. 

For those of you optimistic that the garment industry will suddenly wake up and decide to get organized and standardize sizing, well, don’t hold your breath! I’m seeing more trends towards an alphabetical labeling system and I’ve even done some consulting on sizing for a large retailer who is interested in re-writing sizing totally. 

Most brands are not built on technical prowess, and yours doesn't have to be either

When your fashion brand launched, I’m guessing you didn’t have a growth plan for sizing and inclusivity. You started out by doing what worked and built as the need arose because there are a million other fires to put out every day that they need to attend to first. It’s not that you didn’t care, it’s that there is never enough time to properly assess. Nor would you have time to study up on standardized sizing. 

But what is a proper assessment? There isn’t a guide or a school for sizing. The closest you can get to that is a course on pattern grading, but last I knew, sizing theory isn’t a thing being taught. Sizing is just people trying to make the best decisions possible for their customers based on feedback and what is selling. 

What I have found is that a brand may fit on the designer and this designer considers themselves a certain size. But let’s face it, how often does the average person take their measurements and work to maintain them? So the designer sells a dress as a size 8 because she believes she is a size 8, when in actuality she is closer to a size 10. But now her entire spring line fits like this and the dress becomes a bestseller, so you can’t change the sizing after that…. So the designer is called out for vanity sizing and it is what it is going forward. It was not intentional, but it’s hard to pivot.

Catering to customers is priority

The beauty of not having sizing standards in place is that you, as a fashion designer, can choose your sizing that best represents your customer. Bodies are all different, some are older, some are younger, some have boobs, some have boobs but want to look masculine and not adhere to traditional female sizing. Having options means really targeting who your customer is. You don’t need to fit everyone.

I guarantee you that any large retailer that you buy clothing from has spent millions of dollars working with companies that specialize in sizing data. These companies do body scans of customers and analyze existing data to advise retailers on the best sizing structures that will yield the best fit for their customer. The emphasis here is on –their customer—. Their customer is loyal and has figured out exactly what size to buy from their favorite brand. 

As consumers, we all have specific brands that we gravitate towards. The initial draw is the styles and then if it fits well, then we are loyal customers. Because of this large brands know who their customer base is. For instance, a 20 year old is probably preferring to shop at American Eagle and wouldn’t be caught dead in Chicos. That’s ok because Chicos knows that their customer is a certain age and posture and designs to fit their needs. Having options is great! 

Sizing is a suggestion 

You, as the designer, have a specific point of view on how you want a garment to look. Part of that includes how you want it to fit. Your viewpoint is your own, but it may not be shared by all. For example, you want to design an oversized tshirt that hits at the hip. It’s not a dress, just a long tshirt. When a potential customer shops your product in a store they may see this tshirt and think- “oh that’s gigantic!”, and immediately put it back. But clearly they are not seeing your vision. 

Sizing gives some guidelines on how to get the same look that your customer sees on a website. If your customer compares their body measurements to your sizing chart and chooses based on the size that closest aligns, they should be getting the same look that you’ve intended. You’ve probably even seen websites specify what size and height their model in the photos is so customers have a better point of reference. Maybe you do this for your brand.

On the opposite side, I’m seeing more of a willingness of especially younger consumers, to purchase an item based on the fit they want. For the rest of us, who have been programmed into a set size, this is a good lesson that sizing is not absolute. If you want an oversized look, then it’s ok to purchase a larger size. However, I recognize there is still some psychological stigma around buying a size larger, but that’s entirely another topic to unpack!